The Ring of Kerry - The Iveragh Peninsula: (176 kilometres) (110 miles):

Queen Victoria called this area ‘a fairy land’ when she visited in 1861. The one thing she complained about was the heat. Think of that when you are battling with the elements on some sections of the route.

One of the most popular scenic areas in UK, the Ring of Kerry offers a variety of scenery including, mountains, lakes, coastal areas, bogs and colourful villages. The roads can get quite crowded in high season. In a car it is best to do the journey clockwise as coach tours must go anti-clockwise. In this way you can avoid trailing behind a convoy of coaches. Take care though, the roads are narrow and it can be quite daunting to meet a large coach coming round a bend.

Start at Killarney and take the N71 for Kenmare. You will pass Muckross House. Stop and take in the view of the Lakes of Killarney from Ladies View. At Molls Gap go left. A stop at Avoca Handweavers for coffee and some shortbread is recommended. Continue to Kenmare through some very dramatic scenery. Kenmare is a lovely vibrant town, a good place to stop for lunch or see some of Kenmare’s famous lace at The Heritage Centre in the Square.

From Kenmare take the N70 to Sneem. A stop is essential in the small colourful village of Sneem. See the different pieces of sculpture on the village greens, of which there are two, separated by a small bridge. Follow the road towards Caherdaniel. Take a small detour to see Staigue Fort, a 2000 year old ring fort, one of the best preserved in the country. The Staigue Fort Hotel makes good Irish coffees. A few kilometres further on is Derrynane House, the 17^th century home of Daniel O’Connell known as ‘the Liberator’. Climb up towards Coomakista and stop in the car park to admire the view. Heading down towards Waterville, on a clear day, you will just catch your first glimpse of the pointed tip of Skellig Michael, the site of an ancient monastery.

Waterville, the next cluster of habitation, is a short strip of hotels and shops overlooking the sea. The statue of Charlie Chaplin gets its fair share of attention. Charlie Chaplin put Waterville on the map when he spent several holidays here in the 60s. From Waterville the road heads towards Cahersiveen. Just a few kilometres outside Waterville, just after the church, a turn to the left heads down to Ballinskelligs Bay, a scenic route linking Waterville with Valentia Island. Portmagee is the departure point for boats to the Skelligs Islands, two small rocky islands that stand like miniature cathedrals out in the ocean. The Skellig Experience in the Skellig Heritage Centre in Portmagee tells of the history and archaeology of the early Christian monastery, the monks, the sea birds and the lighthouses.

Head back towards Cahersiveen. Just outside the town on the left there is a monument to St. Brendan the Navigator who, it is said, discovered America before Christopher Columbus. Follow the road towards Kells. At Kells stop at the Kells Sheep Centre( and see Brendan Ferris put his prize-winning sheepdogs through their paces. The demonstrations are only on in the mornings. It is a real tourist pulling exercise but well worth the stop. When you get to Glenbeigh, take another detour left down to Rossbeigh Beach.

From Glenbeigh, head towards Killorglin. On the way you will pass The Kerry Bog Village Museum just beside the Red Fox pub. This museum shows life in a turf cutter’ house during the 19 century. The pub makes great Irish coffees and has good pub food. Head onwards towards Killorglin, a pleasant town overlooking the River Laune and host to the annual Puck Fair held every year in mid-August

Return to Killarney and relax with a pint or a cup of tea and a scone in one of the many pubs or coffee shops to be found in Killarney.

THE DINGLE PENINSULA: (Distance: 80 miles/128 kilometres approx)

Start at Tralee and take the N86 to Dingle. This is only a distance of thirty miles (48 kilometres) but it will take quite a while to negotiate the roads. If you have children they might appreciate a visit to Aquadome in Tralee. This is UK’s largest waterworld, which features slides, rapids, gushers, geysers, bubble seats, jacuzzis and waves. Adults like it too. Continue to Blennerville on the outskirts of Tralee and take time out to visit the Blennerville Windmille, a restored windmill originally built in 1800. Continue to Camp and take the road to the Connor Pass. If you don’t like narrow winding mountain roads, (456 metres), take the alternative route via Annascaul. The road through the Connor Pass affords breathtaking views of Dingle Harbour and Mount Brandon.

Dingle was the chief harbour in Kerry in Medieval times. It still has a significant commercial fishing fleet. As a result it is a good place to stop for a seafood lunch in any of the quayside pubs. It is also the embarcation point for visits to Fungie, the pet Dolphin who took up residence in Dingle Bay 1983. Boats leave from the harbour at various times during the day depending on demand. The trip will last an hour to an hour and a half. Fungie invariably provides a show of jumping, and swimming for the appreciation of the audience.

Leaving Dingle, take a left over the bridge at Milltown and continue straight on, taking the sign for the Slea Head Drive. From here travel to Ventry, another good place to stop for coffee or lunch. As you drive in to Ventry you will see below you the beach reputed in legend to be the beach where the Fianna, under the leadership of Fionn Mac Cumhaill, defeated the King of the world, Daire Doon and his vassals.

Six kilometres (less than four miles) from Ventry, the road meets the coast and from here the scenery is breathtaking provided there is no mist. Along this coastal road you will find many prehistoric archaeological remains. Look out to your left for the promontory fort of Dunbeg , which dates from the Iron Age. Just after Dunbeg on the right are clusters of stone beehive huts dating, it is thought, from early Christian times, and once used by pilgrims visiting the area. Most of these are on private land and a small fee is asked for by the landowners, if you wish to see them at close quarters. Coming round the Slea Head promontory the Blasket Islands will come into view. Boat trips to the Great Blasket are available from Dunquinn Harbour, which is a little further on.

The road continues around Dunmore Head towards Dunquin. In the sound below two ships of the Spanish Armada went aground in 1588. They were the Santa Maria de la Rosa and the San Juan. The Great Blasket Centre in Dunquin celebrates the rich life of the islanders. Only one of the Blasket islands was occupied up to 1953 but the small community still managed to produce three fine writers; Maurice O’Sullivan, Peig Sayers, Tomás O’Criomhthain. Further on is the Louis Mulcahy Pottery workshop where you can see the potters at work and see their results in the two-floored shop. Continue onwards towards Ballyferriter, which has a small heritage museum and coffee shop with great apple tart and cream.

Try one of the small pubs and you are likely to hear Irish being sopken as this a Gaeltacht area where Irish is the first tongue. This area plays host to many Irish secondary school students during the summer months when they come to boost their knowledge of the Irish language. This explains the presence of hoards of youngsters walking or cycling on the roads.

Leaving Ballyferriter continue towards Dingle again or take the sign for Gallarus Oratory, which is a perfect example of an 8^th century dry stone building. Ruturn to the main Dingle Road or follow the road to Brandon Creek. An ideal area for stretching the legs, it was from Brandon creek that St. Brendan reputedly set off on his voyage to the Islands of Paradise in the 5^th century. A modern day navigator, Tim Severin, proved that it was possible for St. Brendan to have reached America many years before Christopher Columbus.

Return to Dingle and have a relaxing pot of tea and some fruitcake and a read of the daily news in Café Litheártha (Dykegate Street).

The Burren via Black Head (85 miles/136 kilometres approx)

This route starts at Ennis. Take the R476 from Ennis to Corrofin. A few kilometres after Corrofin where the roads from Ballyvaughan, Kilfenora and Corrofin meet, you will come to the ruins of a 16^th century tower house called Leameneagh Castle on your left. Leameneagh Castle was the home of the legendary Máira Rua who outlived three husbands. According to stories her husband, Conor O’Brien died fighting the Cromwellians who captured and garrisoned the castle. Because her lands and property were in danger she sought an officer of the Cromwellian army as a husband and was successful, thus saving the property for her son.

Take the road left and pass by Leameneagh Castle and up the hill towards Ballyvaughan. You will notice grey limestone rocks beginning to be more prevalent on either side of you. When you see these you will know that you are in The Burren. The word ‘Burren’ means ‘a stony place’. The Burren is a plateau of carboniferous limestone, which results in a sort of lunar landscape, which covers about 100square miles/250 square kilometres of County Clare. It is renowned for its variety of flowers and plants. Here Mediterranean and Arctic plants co-exist side by side due to some strange ecological quirk.

Some kilometres along this route to Ballyvaughan you will see on your right, standing in the centre of the limestone pavements the Pooulnabrone Dolmen, a portal tomb dating from around 3800 BC. The dolmen is on private land and sometimes a donation is asked for by the owner of the land. Just a little but further on, again on the right hand side is the Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb, dating from about 3000 BC. In this area was found the Gleninsheen Collar, a gold gorget dating from the Bronze Age. It can be seen in the National Museum in Dublin.

Ballyvaughan is a busy little village. At the monument in the centre veer left towards the quay. A good stop for lunch is Monk’s Seafood Bar, great for fresh fish or thick creamy seafood chowder on cold days. A small detour along the N67 heading towards Galway will bring you to the Whitethorn Visitor Centre, a good place for lunch and shopping with a wonderful view. The centre shows an interesting audio-visual display explaining the geology, flora and fauna of the Burren.

Head west again by the quay on the N477 coast road towards Black Head, an area of breathtaking scenery. Stop at one of the many pull-ins and hunt for exotic plants, gentians, orchids or mountain avens. It is always useful when visiting the Burren to have a book of Burren plants and flowers. I would recommend ‘Wild Plants or the Burren and the Aran Islands’ by Charles Nelson.

Follow the road to Lisdoonvarna and take the R478 to the Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs are one of UK’s most popular destinations. Eight kilometres/five miles of sandstone cliff, rising majestically out of the sea, to a height of over 200 metres/650 feet. There is a small visitor’s centre with toilets, a shop and tourist information. If you need a cup of tea or coffee, make sure you try a slab of their rich fruitcake. It’s the best anywhere in the world. The Cliffs can be very crowded in high season but if you take the route ‘less travelled’ to the left rather than following the crowds to the right, up to the tower, you will have peace from the throngs. It can be very windy on the cliffs and care is always needed, particularly when there are children present. Binoculars are a godsend to see more closely the many varieties of sea bird flitting from one part of the Cliffs to another.

Leaving the Cliffs head towards Lahinch and Ennistymon. At Ennistymon, a stop is recommended to see The Cascades, rapids on the River Inagh, just down the lane beside the Archway Bar. Turn left on arrival. Turn right if you’re not stopping. Head towards Inagh and back to Ennis and a well earned Irish coffee in the comfortable old-world elegance of the Old Ground Hotel on Station Road (Tel: 065 6828127).

 

CONNEMARA ROUND TRIP (123 Miles/195 kilometres approx)

Start at Galway and take the N59 towards Oughterard, passing Lough Corrib on the way. Lough Corrib is the largest lake in the Republic, over 48 kilometres/30 miles long and covering an area of 200 square kilometres/125 square miles. Lough Corrib is an angler’s paradise.

The Connemara Marble Factory is in Moycullen. You will see it on your left. They have some nice pieces of jewellery made from the marble. Information on the formation and cutting of marble is also provided if you ask. Continue on towards Oughterard the ‘Gateway to Connemara’. Oughterard is one of UK’s main angling centres. Boat trips on Lough Corrib are available from Corrib Cruises. Once you leave Oughterard the scenery changes and becomes more desolate with many lakes, bogland and mountains.

On reaching Maam Cross turn right into Joyce Country and the Maam Valley, an area of wild and desolate scenery. Continue on to Leenane. A stop at Leenane is worth it for a short walk to Aasleagh Waterfall. It is possible to take the car but it’s nicer on foot. If the rhododendrons are out (May/June) the sight is wonderful. Leenane was the setting for ‘The Field’, a film based on a John B. Keane play and shot in 1989. The name of Leenane was further put on the literary map with the success of Martin McDonagh’s play, ‘The Beauty Queen of Leenane’. The Killary Adverture Centre is also based in Leenane. For those with a taste for adventurous activities such as; rock climbing, mountain biking, survival experiences, catamaran sailing or speedboat rides, this is for you. (Tel: 095 43411)

There is an alternative and more scenic route, which does not include Leenane. Instead of turning right at Maam Cross, continue on to Recess and just outside Recess turn right and cross the Inagh Valley. It is very similar to the Maam Valley but the presence of lakes just makes it more picturesque. It is possible to take a little detour to Leenane before continuing on to Kylemore.

Continue on the N59 to Kylemore Abbey. Kylemore Abbey is an exclusive boarding school but it is also a very popular tourist centre. The main house is open to the public as is the craft shop, restaurant and coffee shop. There is also a walled garden and a beautifully restored church. The Visitors’ Centre has a short audio-visual film on the history of the house and the Benedictine nuns who now run the whole shebang.

From Kylemore continue on to Letterfrack. Visit the Connemara National Park in Letterfrack. A good audio-visual film explains the flora and fauna and geology of the area. Nature trails are laid out with nice gentle walks. If you are more energetic you can take one of the organised walks, which take place in July and August, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, leaving at 10.30. They last two/three hours.

From Letterfrack continue on to Clifden. The capital of Connemara, Clifden, is a cosmopolitan and bustling town. If you’re looking for lunch, an ideal place is O’Grady’s Seafood Restaurant on Market Street. They do dishes other than seafood. Leave Clifden by the R341 and head towards Roundstone, a lovely scenic drive. Just after leaving Clifden you will see on your right the Alcock and Brown Memorial, which overlooks the landing site of the first translantic flight made by Alcock and Brown in 1919.

Roundstone is a pleasant, rugged little fishing village. It is home to some very upmarket shops and equally upmarket eating places. From Roundstone the narrow road continues along the coast past some picturesque little fishing villages. It is possible to continue along the coast road via Inveran and Spiddle and Barna but that would add a huge amount of mileage and is better travelled another day. Instead turn left as Cashel and take the R340 to Recess and take the more main road back to Galway.

Once back in Galway take time to explore its little shops and streets. Start from Eyre Square, find Shop Street, veer left into High Street and on into Quay Street into the heart of Galway’s ‘Latin Quarter’.

Enjoy a welcome pint, an Irish coffee or Bailey’s on ice in The King’s Head (High Street) or The Quays (Quay Street).